Embracing Nong Khai-Off to Ventiane, Laos

Jan. 1st, 2009.
Well our New Years was as chill as this quiet town. Golden lanterns filled the sky, and then so did fireworks from both the Thai and Laos sides of the river. A band played quietly in the background, we ate a great meal, and visited with people traveling from all over the world.

Venturing out in Nong Khai New Years Day was amazing. Although the poorest part of Thailand, this small town on the Mekong River has been an unexpected gem.

The only bad part was this horrific experience at breakfast where we ate at this little place and witnessed a middle aged drunk, Caucasian, 6 foot 3ish large man assault a little Thai woman, putting her in a headlock and swinging her around against the wall in a choke hold. All over a few breakfast sausage, the equivalent to less than 1 dollar. a disturbing story for another time.

We rented pedal bikes and headed out to find the Salakeawkoo Sculpture Garden. I realized just what a novelty we were around here as we biked. Off our resort, this town of 60,000 had maybe 60 non-asians. New Years day everyone shouted to us from motorbikes, shop fronts, and sitting in groups on sidewalks "hello, happy new year!"
As we followed our map, we were stopped trying to figure out which of two diverging roads we should take. This little old man on a bike came by and said something we didn't understand but motioned for us to follow. We took the gravel road and passed a school, a temple and then the road narrowed and there were 100 barking dogs seemingly all looked after by one young monk. We obviously hesitated and this little man looked back and saw. He slowed, got off his bike, and walked it, showing us it was ok to pass through. Shortly past this we hit a farm where this man stopped. He again said something and pointed us up the road to the sculpture park with a grin from ear to ear. I was both amazed that we communicated so much without an understood word, and so touched by his kindness towards us.

The sculpture garden was indescribable. Only pictures could explain. An old lady came up to me, rubbed my arm and giggled. I don't know if it was my skin, my hairy arms lol, or if the fact that we were quite interested in this place amused her, but she seemed to want to help us out and she pointed towards probably the most amazing sculpture there. Huge intricate sculptures, headed up by a yogi-priest eccentric man that combined both buddist and hindu ideas. He had volunteers make it and still look after it today. The man died in '96 and remains mummified in the on-site temple on the upper floor in a glass kind of shrine. On our way out another older man saw us 2 foreign kids biking and just bust a gut laughing, not sure why, guess it must be an unusual site.

In the afternoon this man, also named Chris from Oregon, that we met took us to lunch. He has been all over Asia many times, and knows the locals and all the coolest places. We went to this Vietnamese place that was PACKED. It was the best lunch, they show you what to do. It was rice papers wrapping up noodle, cucumber, mint, starfruit, garlic, green banana optional peppers and pork with a peanut sauce. To die for! Chris was a wealth of knowledge for everything! He has visited Nong Khai a half a dozen times over the past 10 years. We then went to the village weaver and through the market and he taught us the ins and outs of silk and making it. The scarves etc are beautiful, can't wait to pick some up in Laos, apparently the better place to buy which is where we head tomorrow.

Jan. 2-3, 2009
We crossed the Thai-Laos friendship bridge and headed to Laos, where Canadians pay the most in the entire world, literally, for visas. No one knows why. We took the public bus into Vientiane, the Capital city that is along the other side of the Mekong. It is a very neat city, and in contrast to where we just were, full of tourists making it more difficult to find a place. We spent the afternoon walking around (without our packs, man they get heavy!) and then made it to the Cope Exhibition. It is a new place that explains the Landmine problems from the "secret war" where the US dropped millions of bombs over Laos to block the Vietnamese during the war. Laos is the most bombed country in the world but hardly anyone knows about it. We had absolutely no idea this happened, and the stories were heart breaking. 30 percent of the bombs dropped never went off. Countless people have been accidentally killed by these remaining bombs. Many children have been killed or left without limbs thinking the little "bombies" are toys or trying to recover them and sell the scrap metal as its good money. The Cope Exhibit raises money to make prosthetic limbs and wheel chairs etc. Last night we met up with Melissa, a contact we linked up with through Church. She lives here and is studying the language now. We had a Laos meal and then went for ice cream at a Scandanavian bakery. Fun to hear her stories.

We plan to tour the city tomorrow and then make our way up to Vang Vieng. Thanks to everyone for their comments and emails. It makes us feel connected to back home!

One of many pictures from the Sculpture garden

Eating at the greatest Vietnamese place in Nong Khai

Waiting for Chris' banana roti, (a crepe like goodness)this girl went straight for the chapstick in my pocket. I let her put some on and she was my best friend after that. Such a little doll.

Arriving in Laos. Hiking around Vientiane trying to find a place to stay.

Relaxing in the afternoon with this monster of a beerlao